Conflict-Free Diamonds

Contents What is the Kimberley Process? Where do conflict-free diamonds come from? What conflict-free diamonds are, and what they are not! Is there a certificate of origin when purchasing a diamond? Can you recognize conflict-free diamonds with the naked eye? Conflict-Free Diamonds and the Kimberley Process At BREEDIA, we are frequently asked where our diamonds come from and whether they are also not blood diamonds. Since we also consider this topic when purchasing diamonds, we explain below not only why our diamonds are conflict-free, but also what other ethical standards we adhere to. The Kimberley Process and the System of Warranties After it was discovered in the 1990s that illegally mined diamonds in Liberia, Sierra Leone, and Angola were being used to finance African civil wars, the U.N. decided in partnership with some African diamond-producing countries, as well as the EU and the USA, to ban trade with countries from conflict regions. In 2003, this agreement, which was decided in Kimberley (South Africa) in 2000, came into force. Since then, the so-called Kimberley Process has used the Kimberley Process Certification System (KPCS) to ensure that only fair diamonds are traded worldwide, which can demonstrate through certificates of origin that they do not come from any conflict region. Furthermore, export and import are only permitted between countries that have signed the Kimberley Agreement. To ensure that no conflict diamonds are mixed in, rough diamonds are transported together under seal. In the so-called System of Warranties, subsequent (intermediate) traders confirm the verification and compliance with the Kimberley Process of the previous stage. As a trader of a Kimberley participant country, it is therefore not permitted to acquire diamonds whose origin is unclear and has not been unambiguously certified as conflict-free. Compliance is continuously monitored by national and international control bodies. The conflict-free diamond is also referred to as a fair diamond. However, this has nothing to do with the Fair Trade label. What is a blood diamond? A blood diamond is a rough diamond or already cut stone, through the sale of which wars or civil wars are financed. Often, rebel groups smuggle these stones into other countries to buy weapons with them. Although the Kimberley Process is certainly not perfect: Overall, this step led to the fact that the sale of diamonds from dubious sources in the diamond trade has been largely curtailed. Only 0.02% of traded diamonds still come from conflict regions (in the 90s it was still 4%) Discover conflict-free diamond engagement rings Purchase classic, simple, and curved engagement rings with fair diamonds or without gemstones from your trusted jeweler! More transparency through BREEDIA's direct diamond trade At BREEDIA, you can only buy conflict-free diamonds. However, the System of Warranties is only as strong as its weakest link. There is a quick risk that despite strict controls, "black sheep" will sneak into the diamond sourcing cycle. Therefore, our diamonds are not only subject to strict control by the Kimberley Process. We also eliminate through our vertical value chain those intermediaries and non-transparent sourcing of traditional jewelers through the following measures: Direct diamond sourcing from cutting facilities or those dealers who cooperate directly with them, rather than from national wholesale In-house jewelry production instead of outsourcing BREEDIA compared to other jewelers. Traditional jeweler Few jewelers produce their own pieces; most purchase their jewelry from larger jewelry manufacturers at home and abroad. Traditional jewelers are therefore dependent on their suppliers' diamond dealers and intermediaries providing the guarantee that the diamonds are demonstrably of ethically unproblematic origin. You should therefore only shop at a jeweler you trust. At BREEDIA, this problem does not exist because we produce our engagement rings in Pforzheim in our own production facility and take care of sourcing all gemstones ourselves. By reducing the steps in the supply chain, we can significantly increase transparency compared to the competition of local jewelry retailers. Online retailers with huge diamond selection (+20,000 diamonds in stock) Caution is also advised with online retailers who display a large selection of diamonds on their website. In fact, these stones do not belong to the company itself. Instead, only an offer from a globally spanning diamond exchange is provided, on which other jewelers, diamond dealers, and intermediaries (mostly from India) offer their inventory. These online retailers therefore act only as intermediaries between you, the end customer, and the actual owner of the cut diamond, without really marking this on the website. Direct control over the actual dealer is not possible due to the large number of sellers on this platform. The System of Warranties is very difficult to enforce in this case. Where do conflict-free diamonds come from? Around 80% of all diamonds certified as conflict-free come from Russia, Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Australia, USA, and Canada. In these countries, in addition to the obligations of the Kimberley Process with regard to diamond mining, great emphasis is placed on compliance with human rights, ecological sustainability, and workers' rights. At BREEDIA, we therefore always try to source diamonds exclusively from those regions. Furthermore, additional countries (54 of them, as well as all EU countries; as of 2018) have committed to complying with the Kimberley Process. Meanwhile, 99.8% of all diamonds produced in the world are of conflict-free origin. Top 80% of Kimberley mining countries What conflict-free diamonds are, and what they are not! The Kimberley Agreement ensures exclusively that international trade in blood diamonds and the resulting financing of wars (particularly in Africa) is prevented. This does not affect numerous ethical and ecological standards. While many countries are now trying to improve ecological sustainability in diamond mining and reduce worker exploitation, the Kimberley Agreement ultimately does not require this. As described in the last section, 80% of conflict-free diamonds are now mined in countries where standards are already very high. However, in Kimberley participant countries such as Angola, Ghana, or the Congo, working conditions and environmental impacts are still very poor. At BREEDIA, we therefore support those initiatives that value fair diamond mining. It is our concern that you can purchase sustainable and fair diamonds. There are efforts to expand the diamond trade to include additional points for participating members of the Kimberley Agreement in the near future. This is intended to enable fair trade in these precious gemstones for both the environment and people. Our promise: Diamonds from BREEDIA from fair regions Is there a certificate of origin when purchasing a diamond from a jeweler? No, a jeweler cannot determine exactly where a fair diamond comes from. Unfortunately, this is because immediately after diamonds are mined from the earth, they are auctioned to diamond cutters or intermediaries. At these auctions, it is not possible to bid on specific rough diamonds from a single mine, but only on an entire lot. This lot consists of stones of various sizes and qualities from different mines. This gives the diamond producer who owns the mines the assurance that all diamonds can be sold and not just the best and most frequently requested ones (due to the monopoly position of the two leading diamond mine owners, De Beers and Alrosa, this sales system is unfortunately difficult to break through). Since the origin of the diamonds is already mixed after the auction and before the stones are cut, it would be extremely unethical for a jeweler to claim to know the exact source of the diamond. An expertise on quality (e.g., from GIA or IGI) also does not include information about the origin of the gemstone - however, these certification institutes pay particular attention to origin. Engagement rings in all styles Classic rings Pavé rings All engagement rings Can you recognize conflict-free diamonds as a layperson? No. Even as a jewelry expert, it is not possible to determine the exact origin of the diamond. However, there are scientific methods, including infrared light, to analyze the light spectra or trace elements of the gemstone, which can be used to determine the place of origin relatively accurately. Due to the high effort and high costs, this is not implemented in practice. There is one exception: Certain pink or fancy-colored diamonds are so rare and so special in their color tone that they can be assigned to a specific mine at first glance, the Argyle diamond mine in Australia.

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Diamonds 4C

When selecting a diamond, two factors must be considered! First, there is the stone shape and second, the stone quality: Initially, you should think about what shape the diamond should be cut into for your engagement ring. There are countless cut shapes, such as Brilliant (round) or Princess Cut (square), which we will discuss in more detail below. The actual diamond quality is determined by four quality criteria, the so-called 4C's (Carat, Color, Clarity, Cut). The 4 C's Carat (weight), Color (color), Clarity (purity) and Cut (cut quality). All these properties determine the value of a diamond. A large diamond in poor quality can be worth less than a small, yet flawless diamond. Therefore, it is important to ensure that the diamond is of good to very good quality. What to look for when buying a diamond! Only flawless diamonds (IF) are absolutely perfect. However, even for experts, it is not easy to detect small impurities with the naked eye, as long as they are at most very small (SI1). Only visible inclusions (I1–I3) disturb the overall appearance and also reduce brilliance. The same applies to color: An absolutely colorless diamond (D) would of course be desirable, but is very expensive. Nearly colorless and more affordable diamonds are a very good alternative for most occasions (e.g., color G or better). Yellowish-tinted diamonds (such as K) are not recommended and are therefore not offered by BREEDIA. Carat Color Cut Clarity 1. Carat – Weight Carat indicates the weight of the diamond, where 1 carat equals exactly 200 mg. At BREEDIA, you will find diamond jewelry from 0.05 to 1 ct. In rings with multiple stones, stones of 0.001 ct to a maximum of 0.05 ct are usually offered on the ring band. Through the weight of a brilliant, the size of the stone can be approximately determined, since the proportions are almost the same with the same cut. 2. Color – Color Color indicates whether a diamond is colorless or has a yellow tint. Diamonds of the best quality are colorless or in a very fine white and are therefore also the most valuable. Color is one of the most important factors in determining quality. In general, we recommend diamonds in color G (TW, Top Wesselton). Upon request – or if the configuration allows – a better quality can also be selected. Since the designation of diamond color quality varies greatly internationally, you can see the most commonly used quality grades in the following table: In Germany, German terms were previously used to grade diamonds. Today, however, designations according to English or American standards are more common. For diamonds under 0.30 ct, English additions are therefore often found, e.g., for fine white Top Wesselton (TW) is specified. Diamonds from 0.30 ct are supplied exclusively with GIA or IGI expertise at BREEDIA. Here, the evaluation is in alphabetical order from D to Z. Therefore, from these stone sizes onwards, you will only find the American designation in our certificates. Not to be confused is the "color of a diamond" with "colored diamonds", the so-called Fancy Diamonds, including pink, yellow or black. These stones are evaluated according to their own standards. Fancy Diamonds are extremely rare and in most cases significantly more expensive than white diamonds (upon request, we also process colored untreated or colored treated diamonds). Diamond Colors Color G is a bright diamond with minimal color traces. DEFGHIJ Colorless Nearly colorless Slightly tinted 3. Cut – Cut Quality The Cut is the most important criterion for the actual brilliance of a diamond and has become increasingly important in purchasing decisions in recent years. Cut is often confused with the term cut shape (i.e., round brilliant or square princess cut, etc.). However, cut in the sense of diamond grading actually refers to cut quality. Before a diamond is cut, it must first be determined how many diamonds can be cut from a single rough diamond. Typically, a rough diamond (due to its octahedral shape) is split into at least two stones to maximize the remaining weight afterwards. While this maximizes the yield for diamond cutters, it often results in poorly proportioned diamonds. Only very well-cut diamonds, with the right ratio of height and width, reflect light back to the viewer and create that inner fire. Poorly cut stones scatter light in all directions and thus sparkle less. In addition to brilliance, the overall appearance of the facet arrangement is of great importance. When the facets on the top and bottom (viewed from above) are aligned with each other, a calm image is created for the viewer. If this is not the case, the stone appears very restless (this criterion is determined, for example, in GIA certificates by symmetry). Not quite as important, but still recognizable under magnification, is the quality of the polish. Ideally, no polish marks are visible. Poorly polished stones have recognizable white grinding marks under 10x magnification. BREEDIA therefore offers exclusively diamonds with very good to excellent quality, because the diamond (even if flawless and colorless) simply would not look beautiful otherwise. 4. Clarity – Purity Clarity defines the purity level of a diamond. Since diamonds are carbon compounds that form over millions of years under high pressure, other minerals can be trapped in the diamond during this process and disturb the crystal structure. Such inclusions and disturbances can limit brilliance. Absolutely flawless diamonds are therefore very rare and extremely valuable. For jewelry purposes, diamonds with very small inclusions that are only visible under magnification are already suitable. We therefore offer diamonds with at least SI (small inclusions) or VVS/VS (depending on the collection) on almost all models, as these characteristics are not visible to the naked eye. Diamonds with the clarity grade I (Inclusions) are not offered, as inclusions are already visible to the naked eye at this level. As with the color of the 4C's, clarity is also evaluated according to international standards – as you can see from the following table: The importance of independent certificates for diamond value: In addition to the 4C's, expertise is also of great importance for the value of a diamond. Only diamonds certified by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the International Gemological Institute (IGI) meet our high standards for diamonds from 0.3 ct. Grading by other institutes (however reputable they may sound) is less strict and therefore has a negative impact on price. For diamonds of at least 0.3 ct (for the main stone), GIA or IGI certificates are included in our delivery – diamonds under 0.3 ct are subject to our own strict evaluation. With these tips to the perfect proposal Find ring size 10 Facts about engagement rings Engagement ring costs? Back to magazine

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What does the stone quality TW/SI mean?

The quality standard TW/SI is of great importance for use in engagement rings. TW/SI refers to the quality of the diamond. In diamond science, there are four different characteristics that classify the quality of a diamond, the so-called 4Cs. TW/SI covers two criteria: "Color" = color of the diamond and "Clarity" = purity of the diamond. The abbreviation "TW" stands for Top Wesselton and evaluates the color of the diamond. Diamonds with Top Wesselton are assigned the letters F or G in diamond science and are nearly colorless. The abbreviation "SI" stands for Small Inclusions. For experts, small inclusions are visible under 10x magnification. How does TW/SI differ from W/SI? With these diamond standards, the difference lies only in the color of the diamond. A diamond with TW/SI quality appears slightly more colorless than a diamond in W/SI. The purity of the diamond remains unaffected. Why is TW/SI a very good diamond quality? The diamond is nearly colorless. Only in direct comparison with stones of color E and D is a difference noticeable. Only experts see small inclusions under the 10x magnifying glass. With the naked eye, features in the diamond are only visible in exceptional cases. The inclusions are so small that the brilliance is only minimally reduced. The price-to-performance ratio of these stones is very good – which is why it is the most popular diamond quality for jewelry (especially engagement rings). For smaller diamonds up to 0.2 ct, the TW/SI diamond standard is ideal. Better qualities are difficult to detect at these stone sizes or only in direct comparison. What does the diamond quality TW/VS mean? The diamond quality TW/VS is better than TW/SI. The color is identical, but the clarity rating of the diamond is better. This means: A TW/VS stone has fewer inclusions than a TW/SI stone at the same color. How noticeable are the differences between TW/SI and TW/VS to the naked eye? Difficult – only in direct comparison can an expert with a 10x magnifying glass detect a difference. Buy engagement rings with diamond (TW/SI) online now Discover classic, simple and curved engagement rings with the recommended diamonds. Engagement rings with diamond In which cases is the diamond quality TW/SI not recommended? - Not optimal for diamonds with a large table, such as princess cut, emerald cut or oval diamonds. - Inclusions can reduce brilliance. - For angular diamonds, we recommend a better clarity grade than "Very Small Inclusions" (VSI). Back to the knowledge area for diamonds We help you with your engagementFAQ on diamonds Diamonds 4 C Diamond vs. Brilliant Diamonds ct converted to mm

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What is the Difference Between Diamond and Brilliant?

Contents Brilliant vs. Diamond Why are not all stones cut as brilliant? Brilliant vs. Brilliant? Diamond or Brilliant – what is the difference? We are frequently asked by customers whether the gemstone in the engagement ring is a diamond or a brilliant. At this point, we would like to explain the fundamental difference: Diamond is a gemstone Brilliant is a cut type A diamond is the base stone that is mined in many mines as a rough diamond. The rough diamond can be cut into numerous shapes. The most popular cut form is the so-called round brilliant cut with its 57 facets. This cut is chosen to achieve the highest degree of light refraction in the gemstone. Furthermore, the brilliant cut is the most efficient way to shape the gemstone with comparatively low material loss. The short form of this cut type is generally referred to as a brilliant. Nevertheless, for various reasons, not all diamonds are cut in this form. So it is correct that many diamonds are also brilliants. Particularly in the jewelry sector and among expert professionals, both terms are frequently used synonymously. However, since other gemstones such as sapphires or synthetic stones such as cubic zirconia can also be cut in the brilliant cut, ultimately: Engagement Rings in All Shapes Classic Rings Pavé Engagement Rings All Engagement Rings Basic Rule A brilliant does not have to be a diamond and a diamond does not have to be a brilliant. (Only a diamond in brilliant cut is, among other things, a brilliant.) Why are not all stones cut as brilliant? The diamond in brilliant cut has the highest standardization on the commercial market and thus generally achieves the best market price. The high demand for brilliants means that many rough diamonds are cut as brilliants, although the cutting loss is usually around 60%. Depending on the raw material of the rough diamond, however, it may be that a brilliant cut is not technically or economically viable. This can have several reasons: The rough stone has very deep or very flat proportions The rough diamond has strong inclusions or color changes in certain areas where it makes more sense to avoid these during cutting Depending on the specifications, the cutting facility decides to bring the rough stone into a different cut form. In addition to the round cut, square or rectangular cut types are therefore also possible. In general, there is also demand for other shapes such as emerald, heart, princess cut or oval cuts. Difference between Brilliant and Brilliant? According to German spelling, one correctly speaks of a brilliant. The spelling "Brilliant" is incorrect in German and comes from English. Nevertheless, both spellings are widespread in general usage. We Help You With Your EngagementDiamond FAQ Diamonds 4 C Diamond tw/si Diamonds ct converted to mm

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Measure: Diamond sizes in mm table

As the carat weight (abbreviated ct.) increases, the width and height of the diamond also increase. Depending on the cut quality, however, the dimensions may deviate from the table below. For example, a diamond cut too narrowly in brilliant cut may have a width of 4.8 mm instead of 5 mm. In a gemological certificate, width and height (W × H) are specified in mm. You will receive this expertise from BREEDIA for diamonds from 0.3 ct. Carat (ct.) Width Height 0.005 ct. 1 mm 0.7 mm 0.01 ct. 1.3 mm 0.8 mm 0.02 ct. 1.7 mm 1.0 mm 0.03 ct. 2 mm 1.2 mm 0.04 ct. 2.2 mm 1.3 mm 0.05 ct. 2.4 mm 1.5 mm 0.08 ct. 2.7 mm 1.7 mm 0.1 ct. 3 mm 1.9 mm 0.15 ct. 3.4 mm 2.1 mm 0.2 ct. 3.8 mm 2.3 mm 0.25 ct. 4.1 mm 2.5 mm 0.30 ct. 4.3 mm 2.8 mm 0.40 ct. 4.8 mm 3.0 mm 0.50 ct. 5 mm 3.3 mm 0.60 ct. 5.5 mm 3.4 mm 0.70 ct. 5.7 mm 3.6 mm 0.75 ct. 5.9 mm 3.7 mm 0.80 ct. 6 mm 3.8 mm 0.90 ct. 6.3 mm 3.9 mm 1.00 ct. 6.5 mm 4.0 mm Cut type Brilliant with 57 facets (round cut) – Values with cut grade symmetry excellent PDF Download: » Table with actual size comparison of brilliants» Table with mm width and height specifications Back to the Diamond Knowledge Area We help you with your engagementFAQ on Diamonds Diamonds 4 C Diamond vs. Brilliant

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Can Diamonds Break?

« What to do if the stone gets damaged » Diamonds are a girl's best friend! But not only women love them. Countless ring fingers wear the "Invincible", which is what the ancient Greek word "diamond" translates to. As the name suggests, this gemstone is considered extremely stable and virtually indestructible. But a diamond can actually break. Why the hardest stones in the world can be damaged more easily than one might think, how you can prevent this, and what to do if the stone is damaged anyway, you will learn in the following article. 5 Key Facts About Diamond Durability Diamonds can break or chip under strong impacts or blows, especially along their crystal structure. Although diamonds have high hardness, they are not indestructible and can be damaged by extreme heat or sudden temperature changes. Improper handling of diamond jewelry, such as wearing it during heavy physical work or sports activities, can lead to scratches or other damage. In rare cases, diamonds can develop cracks due to internal stress or inclusions within them, which can lead to breakage. Diamonds, especially those with many inclusions or those that have been previously treated, are more susceptible to damage than those of higher purity and quality. A Special Stone with Outstanding Properties These extraordinary gemstones consist of pure carbon. Deep beneath the earth, where great pressure and heat prevail, the stone forms. Its formation process takes a very long time, taking millions of years for carbon atoms to fuse into a solid crystal lattice. Through volcanic eruptions, rough diamonds reach the surface, where you can find them with great luck. Normally, however, you have to search deep beneath the earth for these extraordinary and hard stones. On the Mohs scale, which determines the hardness of rock, the "Invincible" stands unchallenged at the top. In addition to being used in engagement rings and other jewelry, these stones with their unparalleled hardness are also used in industry. The "Invincible" lives up to its name, as even marble, granite, and other rocks can be cut by it with ease. The gemstones have a unique, symmetrical atomic bond. This crystal structure is responsible for the hardness and must also be considered during cutting. Thus, a stone cannot be cut in any arbitrary direction. The cutting process takes several hours and is millimeter-precise precision work. Only with the correct facet cut do the brilliants then get their unique sparkle. The cut on the gemstone can only be performed with another stone of its kind. After a diamond has been cut and has received its typical shape, it is checked for its purity, brilliance, and weight. Weight is defined in carats, where 0.2 grams equals one carat. The carat weight is also decisive for the value of the stones. How Can the "Invincible" Break at All? Generally, the rule is that the higher the hardness of the stone, the lower the impact resistance. Diamonds are cleavable, so it can certainly happen that a stone breaks if it falls to the ground at an unfavorable angle. Of course, it can also happen that diamond rings break if you hit them against a hard object. Scratches can also occur if you store them with similar stones in a jewelry box. Aggressive chemicals, such as chlorine, can also damage the ring. Care When Wearing – How to Prevent Your Jewelry from Getting Damaged Generally, you should remove your diamond ring when performing manual work. This prevents the setting from catching on something or the "Invincible" from accidentally hitting a hard object. When working with chemicals, you should also remove your engagement ring. The same applies to chains, bracelets, and earrings, especially when playing sports – you should not wear them. When cleaning, the setting and stone can also potentially be damaged by chemicals, so you should remove the jewelry here as well, just as you would on a beach day, because small grains of sand cause contamination and can cause scratches. Multiple rings with brilliants should not be stored in the same jewelry box, as the risk is too great that the jewelry pieces will scratch each other through contact. The gemstones prefer to be softly bedded and stored in their original box. It is clear that such a valuable gemstone should be handled carefully – in keeping with its value. First Aid for Diamond Jewelry If the brilliant has been damaged, the first step should be to visit the jeweler from whom you purchased it. Depending on the extent of the damage, the stone can be recut so that the damaged area is no longer noticeable. Even if the shine is lost, the jeweler has the necessary tools to make the jewelry sparkle again. If the damage cannot be repaired, the jeweler often also has the option of replacing the gemstone. New Shine for the Dull Gemstone In addition to the possibility that a diamond can break, it can also lose its shine. This is quite normal in everyday life and usually has a harmless cause, such as oil from the skin and creams or other deposits like dust. To make your diamond ring sparkle again, you should definitely not resort to acids or other chemicals. Many tips on the internet are unfortunately rather harmful to the little piece of jewelry. A little ammonia in lukewarm water is enough here. The jewelry should soak in the solution for about 10 minutes and then be gently cleaned with a soft toothbrush. After that, it is recommended to dry the jewelry with a lint-free and soft cloth. Sometimes warm water with soap and a little salt also helps to make the little "Invincible" shine again. We Help You With Your EngagementFAQ About Diamonds Diamonds 4 C Diamond vs. Brilliant Diamonds ct converted to mm

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NO BGM - an important quality factor for diamonds!

What does "No BGM" mean? No Brown, No Green, no Milky ("No BGM") Although most criteria such as color, clarity, weight and cut are specified by a gemmological laboratory when evaluating diamonds, we additionally ask our dealers whether the stone is also "No BGM". This means whether the requested stone has none of the following undesirable characteristics: Brown (B) - Does the diamond appear brownish? or Green (G) - Is the stone greenish? Image left: Brilliant with brownish tint, color I (= poor)Image right: Brilliant without brownish tint, color I (good) Diamonds are evaluated based on their color, among other things. However, even with the same color grade (e.g. as shown with I), the intensity of the color effect can be different or even deviate. This is not determined during the grading of the diamond. Only through the trained eye of a specialist jeweler can diamonds with this negative characteristic be sorted out. Milky (M) - Is the stone milky? Image left: Milky stone, color G = Top WesseltonImage right: Clear stone, color G = Top Wesselton Diamonds can have a cloudy or milky appearance. In this case, the facets are no longer clearly visible, and the brilliance is also reduced. Overall, the diamond appears inferior as a result, even though this is not noted in the certificate. Facts about "No BGM" ⇒ Not considered by leading institutes (not even by GIA) ⇒ Must be requested separately from the dealer ⇒ Stones with BGM are worth less ⇒ "No BGM" is desired! Stones with BGM are cheaper in direct comparison because they are of lower quality. There is no information about this on various trading platforms for loose diamonds. As a customer, you must trust that you will receive a beautiful diamond from your jeweler. Our Promise:All BREEDIA diamonds are guaranteed "No BGM" We help you with your engagementFAQ on Diamonds Diamonds 4 C Diamond vs. Brilliant Diamonds ct converted to mm

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What is the Difference Between Old European Cut and Brilliant Cut?

It is the cut that awakens the legendary beauty, the characteristic sparkle and the unique fire of a diamond. The art of cutting, which aims to bring out the brilliance of the stone optimally, has become increasingly precise and refined over time. Innovative techniques and new cutting styles have emerged. Two of the most well-known are the old European cut and the brilliant cut. But what distinguishes the two types? What are their typical characteristics? We answer these and other questions in this article. Quick Facts on Old European Cut vs. Brilliant Cut Period of Origin: The brilliant cut was developed in the early 20th century, while the old European cut dates from the 18th to early 19th century. Shape and Facets: The brilliant cut has precise, symmetrical facets and typically 57 or 58 facets. The old European cut has a less symmetrical shape with fewer but larger facets. Light Play and Brilliance: The brilliant cut is characterized by exceptional light play and high brilliance. The old European cut offers a warmer, softer glow. Visible Features: Old European cuts often have a larger culet and a more rounded shape, while the brilliant cut has a small or no culet and is perfectly round. Historical and Aesthetic Value: Old European cuts are valued for their antique charm, while brilliant cuts are popular with customers seeking maximum brilliance. The Origins of Gemstone Cutting As early as the 14th century, the first goldsmiths began to work with rough diamonds. However, no facets were cut during this time. Essentially, the work was limited to removing small imperfections from the gemstone. The goal was to fix small flaws that occurred, for example, during crystal formation. These so-called relief marks were then either polished or – depending on their extent – ground away. The gemstones used to decorate precious diamond rings at that time also did not yet have the shape we know today. Diamond rings of this era were rather opulent, and the stones were not brought into a uniform shape. Very different creations emerged. Diamond cutters did everything they could to develop the most impressive diamond cut. Working with one of these precious stones presented a major challenge at the time. Only the best and most experienced goldsmiths of that era were entrusted with this delicate task. Special care was required during processing precisely because it was such a precious material. One of the challenges was to remove as little of the precious material as necessary. The hardness of the stone also posed a difficult task for jewelers of the time. Polishing was also a major challenge due to the material's hardness. Overall, the processing was very time and resource-intensive. It was not uncommon for the processing of a diamond to take several years. The Breakthrough in Diamond Cutting Lodewyk van Bercken, also known as Louis Berquem in France, invented a polishing wheel around 1500 that made it possible to cut the facets of diamonds in such a way that optimal reflection was achieved. This cutting technique revolutionized the diamond cutting craft considerably and is essentially still in use today. Lodewyk van Bercken's invention saved a great deal of labor and made it possible to process gemstones in significantly less time. Creating a perfect stone remains a high art today, requiring much experience and great skill. Difference Between Old European Cut and Brilliant Cut The old European cut, also called "Old European Cut," is the predecessor of the modern brilliant cut. Almost all stones cut before 1910 deviate from the standardized dimensions of the brilliant cut and are referred to as old European cut stones. This diamond cut brings very special properties with it. A typical characteristic of old European cut diamonds is the relatively small table facet. This gives the stone somewhat less brilliance, but it has a more intense fire instead. Brilliance refers to the reflected light. "Fire" in this context refers to the shimmering rainbow colors that occur when light is dispersed. A ring with a stone in an old European cut is still a wonderful gift – especially if it is a diamond ring, engagement ring or wedding ring. Another difference between old European cut and brilliant cut is the crown of the old European cut: it is somewhat higher in relation to the overall height and thus appears more elevated in the overall image. Furthermore, old European cut and brilliant cut differ in the missing point on the former, which has been replaced by a round facet. The overall appearance of an old European cut diamond is somewhat darker than is the case with modern diamond cuts, since the light reflection is not as intense due to the less pronounced facets. The difference between old European cut and brilliant cut is optically easy to recognize. Old European cut diamonds are reminiscent of classic emerald and baguette cuts, while brilliant cuts in modern diamond cuts appear faceted and more delicate. A brilliant has many surfaces through which light can be wonderfully reflected. From Mazarin Cut to Modern Brilliant Cut The brilliant cut developed gradually. It took many centuries to develop this nearly perfect diamond cut. Thanks to the polishing wheel developed by Lodewyk van Bercken, it was possible to develop new shapes. From the originally square shape, an octagonal shape was developed through additional facets. This was the first step toward the brilliant cut. In the mid-16th century, a stone emerged that – in terms of its cut – surpassed all previously existing gemstones. French Cardinal Mazarin had commissioned this stone. This specimen had a legendary 32 facets, a collet and a table. The girdle was certainly not yet refined, but this created a defining characteristic. Venetian gemstone cutter Peruzzi modified this cutting technique and developed his own Peruzzi cut. This already exhibits numerous features of today's brilliant cut; proportions and facets set aesthetic standards. Design and the variety of rings and jewelry pieces benefited from advances in cutting technology. The intense brilliance that resulted from the multitude of facets could be effectively showcased through new settings. This is impressively visible in the example of the classic solitaire ring with prong setting. The brilliant cut is therefore now and in the past one of the most popular variants. It makes no difference whether it is on a wedding band, wedding ring or engagement ring. Back to the diamond knowledge section We Help You With Your EngagementFAQ About Diamonds Diamonds 4 C Diamond vs. Brilliant Diamonds ct converted to mm

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Diamond Fluorescence

Formation and Effects Diamond fluorescence occurs due to the accumulation of boron that was present in the surrounding soil. Diamonds with fluorescence glow milky bright under the rays of a UV lamp. Since sunlight also contains UV rays, diamonds with fluorescence can appear milky in daylight as well. Approximately 30% of stones exhibit fluorescence, with about 10% showing very strong fluorescence. Grading Fluorescence Fluorescence is classified in gradations from "none" (sometimes also "nil") through faint, medium, strong, to very strong (shown from left to right in the image). The most common fluorescence color is blue, but other colors exist as well, such as yellow and green. Fluorescence levels with English abbreviations 1. None (Abbreviation "N") – No Fluorescence No fluorescence visible. Under UV light, the diamond is completely dark and does not glow blue. 2. Very Slight (Abbreviation "VSL") – Very Slight Fluorescence The fluorescence is very weak and not visible. Even under UV light, no glow can be detected. 3. Slight (Abbreviation "SL") – Slight Fluorescence The stone glows marginally bluish under UV light. 4. Faint (Abbreviation "F") – Faint Fluorescence The diamond glows slightly bluish under UV light. The untrained eye can first detect a weak glow at this level. 5. Medium (Abbreviation "M") – Medium Fluorescence The diamond glows under UV light. The glow is now clearly visible for the first time. 6. Strong (Abbreviation "S") – Strong Fluorescence The stone glows distinctly and noticeably under UV light. 7. Very Strong (Abbreviation "VS") – Very Strong Fluorescence The diamond exhibits a very strong bluish color under UV light. Especially with large diamonds, the fluorescence is very quickly apparent. Price Impact For stones in color grades D–H, fluorescence causes them to be valued lower. These stones are considered inferior because they can appear milky. Whether this is justified is debated. The GIA conducted an extensive study and concluded that the average observer (private customers) can only rarely detect the difference between a stone with and without fluorescence – most likely only with stones showing "very strong fluorescence". Additionally, the GIA study was conducted by viewing stones placed table-down, which is of little relevance to the average observer (e.g., at a jeweler), as they view the stone almost exclusively from above. For comparison: The difference between "VVS1" and "VVS2" is also not discernible to laypeople, despite sometimes significant price differences. Stones in color grades I–P can actually benefit optically from blue fluorescence. Here, the price difference to stones without fluorescence – if any – is only marginal. We are repeatedly offered stones with strong fluorescence at significantly reduced prices. This suggests that these stones are harder to sell upon resale. History In the past – when the designation "River" was used – there was a higher grade called "Jager" (named after the Jagersfontein mine in South Africa). This likely consisted predominantly of stones with blue fluorescence, which is why the finest diamonds were once called "blue-white". Until well into the 1970s, fluorescence played hardly any role. Only through the significantly more precise color classification by the GIA (division into letter grades, which transformed "Top Wesselton" into color grades F and G, for example) and the introduction of differentiated clarity grades (SI1, SI2, SI3) did fluorescence become a standard part of certificates. In older GIA and IGI reports, it is noticeable that fluorescence classification is often missing. Diamonds for Engagement RingsDiamond FAQ Diamonds 4 C Diamond vs. Brilliant Diamonds ct converted to mm

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What Does Hearts and Arrows Mean in Diamonds?

"Hearts and Arrows" is a special diamond cut that exhibits extraordinary symmetry. Through precise facet cutting, heart and arrow shapes appear when viewed through special scopes. These diamonds offer impressive brilliance and strong fire and are considered a sign of the highest craftsmanship. A diamond with the "Hearts and Arrows" characteristic is very rare and therefore also very expensive. Contact us directly if you would like your engagement ring to shine with this special cut. Image: Original photograph of brilliant with arrows, photographed from above Symmetry: Hearts and Arrows diamonds are distinguished by remarkable symmetry achieved through precise facet cutting. Brilliance: They offer extraordinary brilliance and strong fire due to their optimal light refraction properties. Precision: The cut requires the highest craftsmanship and extreme precision to create the characteristic heart and arrow shapes. Rarity: Hearts and Arrows diamonds are particularly sought after due to their elaborate cut and rarity compared to conventional diamonds. Quality: They are considered a quality mark for diamonds and are a sign of the highest processing standards and excellence in diamond cutting. Image: Original photograph of brilliant with hearts, photographed from below Unique and Fascinating Optics To better understand the terminology, it makes sense to translate it into English. "Hearts and Arrows" comes from English and means hearts and arrows. These terms are used to define a special diamond cut. When you look closely at the top of the gemstone, you can see eight arrows, and on the bottom, eight hearts. Through the symmetrically arranged facets, light is refracted in a wonderful way. This has the effect that the stone appears purer and whiter than is the case with gemstones with a different cut. This special cutting technique makes the diamond a real eye-catcher and is considered one of the most popular ways to cut a gemstone. Chance Played a Role in Its Development Unlike other cutting techniques, the cutting technique for Hearts and Arrows diamonds is still relatively young. It was created by happy accident in the 1980s in Japan. Japanese craftsman Takanori Tamura discovered while working on a gemstone under a special viewing device that certain cutting processes create a heart and arrow pattern. After some tinkering, the cut was continuously improved. In 1988, the name Hearts & Arrows was finally created for this cut. Today, this processing method has become established and is counted among the most popular diamond cuts. Elaborate and Time-Intensive Process These special gemstones require a skilled hand and much time in processing. Manufacturing takes approximately four times as long as the regular processing time required for a brilliant. Only when the 57 facets are cut in perfect proportion and symmetry to each other does the unique pattern of eight identical-looking hearts and arrows emerge. The more perfect the diamond cut, the more valuable the ring into which this diamond will later be set. Even though the pattern can only be recognized with special equipment, the result of this cutting technique is a sparkling gemstone with extraordinary brilliance. These special devices are a type of kaleidoscope under which you place the sparkling stone. Through the special light incidence into the 57 facets, a veritable fire or sparkle is ignited – a fascinating sight. Since this type of diamond cut is still quite young, there are no established evaluation criteria for quality, such as the four C's in diamonds. Therefore, when buying a diamond ring, it is important to keep your eyes open. Because jewelry sellers often use this designation to make an engagement ring with a diamond particularly attractive. However, the fact that you can see hearts and arrows in this form is not necessarily a sign of particularly good quality. Only when the pattern is symmetrical and the proportions are correct does the diamond ring have an ideal Hearts and Arrows cut. The extraordinary brilliance is only achieved when cutting has been done with particular care and precision. This applies, by the way, to all diamond cuts in general. Pattern and cutting quality are the factors that make up the comparatively high price of Hearts and Arrows diamonds. General Evaluation Criteria for Diamonds As already seen, there are no established criteria specifically for Hearts and Arrows diamonds. So that you can still assess the quality offered to you at the jeweler, you should know that there are different designations for quality. "Super Ideal" is what you call an extraordinarily symmetrical diamond cut. "Triple excellent" is the term for a gemstone or diamond whose cut, symmetry, and polish meet this quality mark. Since the focus here is not necessarily on Hearts and Arrows, you should definitely have the quality of the gemstone cut checked with an appropriate device. Hearts and Arrows Cut – A Very Special Idea for the Engagement Ring When proposing, it's not only important to find the right words – the engagement ring must also match your partner's appearance. Most importantly, however, the ring must express the intensity and uniqueness of your feelings for each other. For this special occasion, it should be a very extraordinary piece of jewelry. After all, you have found your one great love for life – and that also includes a beautiful proposal ring. Don't hearts and arrows also remind us a little of Cupid from Greek mythology, who with his arrows can ignite eternal love between two people? Whether combined with white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, platinum or other precious metals – stones that have the special Hearts and Arrows pattern look particularly fascinating in every setting and with every ring band. Of course, this applies especially to the classic solitaire ring, but this special cut also impresses in a tension setting or as an eternity ring. When purchasing, follow the tips to evaluate the quality of the Hearts and Arrows pattern. Back to the knowledge area for diamonds We Help You With Your ProposalDiamond FAQs Diamonds 4 C Diamond vs. Brilliant Diamonds ct converted to mm

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GIA Expertise for Diamonds

Why are diamonds with GIA certification so popular? To determine the quality and value of a diamond, gemstones are certified through independent expert evaluation. The leading laboratory for assessing these diamonds comes from the USA and is called GIA (Gemological Institute of America). The GIA is the most renowned gemmological (Gemmology = gemstone science) laboratory for creating certificates for gemstones (Certificate = certification). It operates independently, as a non-profit organization, and is preferred by jewelers and customers alike, as only here are the strictest certification guidelines maintained. A certificate for colorless diamonds is worthwhile from 0.3 ct. Before that, the creation is disproportionately expensive and does not justify the value of the stone. Costs for creating certificates for diamonds up to 1 ct. are $200 USD (The price depends on the stone size). The following information can be found in a certificate: Date and location of the expert evaluation GIA Number (this is laser-inscribed in the diamond - usually on the girdle) Clarity: Purity of the stone Clarity indicates whether there are any inclusions in the stone. A stone with no inclusions is called eye-clean. The fewer inclusions, the more valuable the stone. For more detailed information on the topic 4 C - Clarity, please find it here. Shape: Form of the stone There are various cut forms for diamonds. The most common form is the round brilliant cut with 57 facets. All information about the different stone shapes for diamonds can be found here. Color: Color of the diamond In the certificate, the color of the diamond is clearly determined. The best color in diamond science is the color "D". Typical jewelry quality are the colors "G" and "H". For more information on the 4 C - Color point, please find it here. Cut: Cut quality of the diamond, subdivided into proportions, polish, and symmetry Polish & Symmetry: Ratio - table, girdle, main facets Fluorescence This value indicates whether a stone glows blue under UV light. If the value is negative, it is designated as "none". Fluorescence should especially not be present in investment-grade diamonds. A GIA certificate is worthwhile because: Guarantees the authenticity of the stone The value of a stone with a GIA certificate is higher than a comparable stone without a certificate or with a certificate from other institutes Strictest certification standards in the industry Better comparability and value determination for resale and insurance purposes The stone is marked: It has a tiny laser signature (often on the girdle of the stone) for easy tracking. Certificate is not equal to certificate Each institute has its own certification rules and standards. The results can therefore vary. For example, some institutes already rate a diamond as eye-clean, while the GIA still detects inclusions here. If you want to be sure that your diamond really has the desired quality, there is no way around a GIA expert evaluation. Further Links: To: GIA Website Here: Check GIA Number Worldwide offices in USA, India, South Africa, and Thailand

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Diamond Shapes & Cuts

« Irresistible Brilliance and Radiant Sparkle » Diamonds remain the most popular gemstones when it comes to engagement rings. Pure and radiant like love itself, they are considered its symbolic stone and impress with beauty, hardness, and stability in equal measure. We explain to you why no two diamonds need to be alike, because enormous differences arise not only from the size of the stones, but also from the numerous cutting styles and diamond shapes. Get to know some of the most important shapes and cuts that create brilliant sparkle on the engagement ring and also on the wedding ring. What Diamond Cuts Are There? An engagement ring with a diamond is simply a classic and is rarely missing from a marriage proposal. And those who choose wedding bands often opt for a model for the lady that is adorned with a beautiful gemstone. For a gemstone to shine at its best in jewelry, it must be cut from its natural rough state. This works only because of the material's hardness by rubbing the gemstones against each other or against grinding wheels equipped with tiny diamond grains. This impressive craftsmanship has its origins in 15th-century Belgium – first Bruges and later Antwerp were the most important cities for diamond cutting. Nowadays, there are many different diamond shapes that can also be used for other gemstones. Basically, one can distinguish between smooth and faceted cuts. The characteristic sparkle of a gemstone only comes about through a faceted cut – a diamond is treated with such a cut almost without exception. Among the most popular diamond shapes with facets, which are always in perfect arrangement to refract incoming light as well as possible, are the brilliant cut, the emerald cut, the oval cut, the pear cut, and the heart cut, and the baguette cut also has many admirers. We present the various cuts and their characteristics in more detail below: The Brilliant Cut This is the most popular of all cutting styles. The widespread belief that a brilliant is an independent gemstone is not quite correct, because it is only through the brilliant cut that a diamond becomes a brilliant – this variant of diamond shapes underlies over 90% of the stones used on the jewelry market. Its final shape was achieved by this cut, which is popular not only for engagement rings, in 1919. Among all cutting styles, the brilliant cut with its round shape and 57 or 58 facets – depending on whether an additional facet was cut at the base of the brilliant – is the one that expresses the brilliance of the stone in a particularly radiant way. The light reflects so beautifully that it is referred to as the fire of the brilliant. Brilliants are perfect for an engagement ring in a classically elegant style and definitely play the leading role when it comes to solitaire diamond rings. The Emerald Cut Also called the smaragd cut, the geometric emerald cut belongs to the diamond shapes that place the purity and clarity of the stone in the foreground. Originally developed for emeralds, the diamond cut was later also used for other gemstones. The facets of the stone cut into a rectangle optically resemble staircase steps. Through the flat top facet, you can look into the interior of the gemstone, which is why this cut is primarily recommended for stones of high purity. Particularly for women who like to stand out in style and jewelry and deviate from the mainstream, an engagement ring with a diamond in emerald cut is wonderfully suitable. These gemstone shapes can also perfectly emphasize the vintage look – it's no wonder that the glamorous cut is among the most popular cutting styles of the Art Deco era. The Princess Cut Not all shapes are round or strictly geometric. The princess cut belongs to the cutting styles where the angular shape of the stone and the resulting sparkle are in the foreground. It is also often referred to as a square variation of the brilliant, since the shine of both cuts is very similar. The cut shape of a pyramid creates 57 or 76 facets in which light is scattered in a unique way. A major advantage of this cut is that very little material is lost and a stone with the same starting weight in the princess cut is noticeably larger than in the round brilliant cut. Whether as a solitaire ring, tension ring, or in a luxurious pavé setting – a gemstone in princess cut suits women who like jewelry that is both traditional and fashionable and contemporary. Pear-Shaped Gemstones Gemstones in this cut have a certain similarity to round brilliants, but due to the pear point appear like a pendant – hence the name pendeloque. Less common are the designations tear or pear diamond. Jewelry pieces with such stones look elegant and feminine, they have a very special radiance that quickly captivates the wearer and observer. An engagement ring with a gemstone in pear shape is especially popular with ladies who do not want standard jewelry but still value a classically elegant style. If the ring is worn so that the point of the stone points toward the fingertip, it creates an optical lengthening of the fingers, which appear slimmer as a result. Heart-Shaped Diamonds Now it gets really romantic! Gemstones in heart shape require a lot of experience and finesse when cutting, because only if both curves are truly symmetrically cut can the desired sparkle be created. For an engagement ring, the heart shape is very often chosen when it is to be designed particularly emotionally. Especially young, romantically inclined ladies like this extraordinary diamond cut as a visible proof of great love for all to see. Diamond rings with heart-shaped stones are also suitable for occasions such as Valentine's Day or a wedding anniversary. A wedding ring with a stone in heart shape, on the other hand, is rarely seen. The Baguette Cut This cut is considered very elegant and belongs to the cutting styles where the clarity of the stone is in the foreground. The name of this cutting technique comes from the French baguette bread – with a bit of imagination, the two shapes resemble each other. Both for an engagement ring and for wedding bands, this cut is often chosen. Stones cut in this way sparkle rather subtly and shine less radiantly than brilliants, they fit wonderfully in rings that are kept discreet and simple. The rectangular cut gemstone has a total of 14 facets and, like all other diamond shapes, can be combined with the different gold tones and ring shanks according to personal taste. For a classic solitaire ring, the baguette cut is rarely used, but in modern tension rings – often in a matte finish – it reaches its peak and delights lovers of straightforward jewelry pieces. And What Other Diamond Cuts Are There? Besides these popular and more or less frequently represented diamond shapes, there are cutting styles that are far more rarely used. Those who like square stones in their engagement ring may find the cushion cut or the Asscher cut form the right choice, and the radiant cut with its slightly rounded corners also falls into this category of diamond rings. In the marquise cut, long and narrow stones are created, whereas triangular diamond shapes are called trillion. We Help You With Your EngagementDiamond FAQs Diamonds 4 C Diamond vs. Brilliant Diamonds ct converted to mm

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